DELIVERY AUSTRALIA WIDE – SHOWROOM & WAREHOUSE VIC
- 1/11 Industrial Avenue Thomastown VIC 3074
- 0411 120030
DELIVERY AUSTRALIA WIDE – SHOWROOM & WAREHOUSE VIC
Epoxy is tough, but it chalks and yellows in sunlight. That’s fine in a warehouse. It’s not fine on a patio, a loading dock, or anywhere the floor sees daylight through a roller door.
Polyurit is the topcoat that goes over it. Aliphatic polyurethane — which is the part that matters, because aromatic polyurethanes yellow and aliphatic ones don’t. Two-pack, satin finish, tintable to 31 colours.
Over epoxy as a UV topcoat, or straight onto prepared concrete as a coating in its own right. Workshops, showrooms, loading docks, walkways, carports, alfresco areas — anywhere a coated floor gets sun.
It also goes over Liquid Lastic PU-991 to protect the membrane from UV on exposed balconies and decks. Liquid Lastic is aromatic, so left bare in the sun, it yellows and chalks. Polyurit takes the UV hit instead.
31 colours matched to AS 2700, so they line up with Colorbond roofing and fencing.
A 10 L kit covers up to 50 m² per coat at 200 µm wet film. Two coats recommended, so allow around 25 m² of finished floor per kit.
Porous or freshly ground concrete takes more.
A satin polyurethane is smooth by design. On a ramp, a wet area, an outdoor walkway, or anywhere people will be on it in the rain, add Grip-PE 711 to the final coat.
It’s a fine aggregate that stirs into the mixed product and gives the surface texture. One jar per 10 L kit. Add it to the top coat only, keep it stirred while you work so it doesn’t settle out, and back-roll to keep the spread even.
It will change the look and the feel — a textured floor holds more dirt and takes more effort to mop. Worth it where someone could slip, not worth it in a showroom.
| Mix ratio | 4 parts A to 1 part B, by volume |
| Pot life | 60 minutes at 25°C |
| Finish | Satin |
| Solids (by weight) | 65 ± 5% |
| Build | 200 µm wet film, 150 µm dry |
| Recoat | 4 to 48 hours |
| Foot traffic | 8 hours |
| Full cure | 7 days |
| VOC | Max 90 g/L |
| Specific gravity | 1.25 kg/L |
| Clean up | Xylene |
Four parts A to one part B, by volume.
Stir Part A on its own first. Pigment settles in the tin, and if you don’t lift it off the bottom the colour will come out uneven across the floor.
Add Part B and mix with a drill and paddle, not a stick. Scrape the sides and the bottom of the bucket as you go — unmixed material in the corners is the most common reason a two-pack floor stays soft in patches.
You get 60 minutes at 25°C. On a hot slab in February that drops to around half, so mix what you can lay in the time you’ve actually got, not what the tin holds. Once it starts to thicken it’s finished, and thinning it won’t bring it back.
Recoat inside 48 hours. You get a window of four to forty-eight hours between coats. Inside that window the second coat bonds chemically into the first, which is the strongest bond you can get.
Miss it and you’re relying on mechanical adhesion only — the floor has to be sanded back to a uniform matt before anything else goes on it. On a big floor that’s a day’s work you didn’t plan for. The same applies when you’re putting Polyurit over fresh epoxy: get it on inside the epoxy’s recoat window, or abrade first.
Seven days means seven days. You can walk on it after eight hours and it will feel solid well before the week is out, but a two-pack coating keeps hardening chemically for seven days. Keep vehicles, heavy loads, spilled chemicals and standing water off it until then.
Every callback we get about a soft floor or tyre marks comes back to this. The coating was fine — it just hadn’t finished.
Over epoxy: coat inside the epoxy’s recoat window and you’ll get a chemical bond. Outside it, abrade the surface to a uniform matt first, then vacuum and solvent wipe.
Over bare concrete: etch with ConEtch, one part to three parts water. Wet the slab first, then apply, agitate with a stiff broom, and leave it 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly until the run-off runs clear, then let the slab dry completely.
ConEtch is acidic. Gloves and eye protection, and keep the run-off out of garden beds and stormwater drains.
Then check it with the water drop test. Tip a little water onto the slab in several spots. If it soaks in within a minute or so and darkens the concrete, the surface is open and you’re ready. If it beads up and sits there, the etch hasn’t got through — that means a heavy sealer or a hard-trowelled finish, and the slab needs mechanical grinding.
Once it’s dry, rub your hand firmly across it. If it comes away chalky, the concrete is loose and powdery and needs PRIMIT E6 111 first. Paint sticks to the powder, and the powder lets go.
Clean up with xylene. Work with the roller door open, and use a respirator rather than a dust mask in enclosed spaces. Flash point is 32°C, so keep it away from ignition sources.
10 L kit, tinted to order. Download the TDS · Download the SDS
Not sure whether you need this or just an epoxy? Call us on (03) 9936 0531.
POLYURIT, Polyurethane flooring, is the top choice for those seeking a highly durable, UV-resistant, and versatile polyurethane coating for concrete surfaces. Whether it’s for industrial, commercial, or residential use, Polyurethane floor coating ensures your floors are protected and looking great for years to come.
Code: PU-232
Solvent Base Tinted Polyurethane
High Solid UV Resistant
10L Covers up to 60 Sqm
| Colours | Tintable | ||
| Finish | Satin | ||
| Solid Content (by Volume)-% | 75±5 | ||
| Theoretical Spreading rate | 5 m²/lit @ 200 µm WFT | ||
| Flash point | NA | ||
| Specific gravity | 1.45 kg/lit | ||
| V.O.C. | Max. 90gr/lit |
To find out how much of our product is needed, please enter the area of your project and the amount of coats you would like to apply and let our paint calculator do the rest.
Spread Rate: 3 – 6m2/L (2 coats are recommended)
*Read the TDS (Technical Data Sheets), SDS (Safety Data Sheets) and installation instructions prior to use.
Nathan Brooks –
It applied smoothly and left a strong, even finish.Really happy with this polyurethane floor coating.
Max F. –
The polyurethane floor coating was simple to apply and produced a smooth, hard-wearing surface.
Elijah Hamet –
It gives the floor a fresh look while adding strong protection. Very satisfied with how it turned out.
Mason Parker –
This polyurethane floor coating was easy to work with.Very pleased with the end result.
Aaron Hayes –
The floor now looks great and feels tough, durable, and well protected. Result was good.
Liam G. –
The floor looks better and feels well protected. Very happy with the result.
Michael Z. –
I used this product and it really upgraded the look of the floor while adding durable protection.
Noah Bennett –
This polyurethane floor coating went on easily and gave a clean, consistent finish.
Jaky Jill –
It has noticeably improved the durability and appearance of the floor. Very solid and reliable result overall.